Hier meiner Meinung nach ein guter Post aus einem amerikanischen Forum:
Was auch noch gut fand war:Not just the seal, an engine has many moving parts right. Well those parts do need to adjust "seat".
Breaking in an engine is a process of properly wearing-in the pistons/cylinders/rings, bearings, valves, camshaft, lifters, rockers, etc... In addition, part of the breaking in process is not only wearing-in and seating the internal engine components but also stress relieving the components as well. Crankshafts, connecting rods, pistons, blocks etc... have many stresses due to the casting or forging process, machining and welding process. I have seen these stresses, called fringes, using what is called lazer holography. These stresses are properly reduced/eliminated by costly and time consuming heat aging as well as shot peening and or high frequency vibration on a very specialized bedplate for an extended period of time. For production applications this is cost and time prohibitive. Therefore, the next best thing is exposing your engine to multiple heating and cooling cycles under various load and RPM's.
Breaking in a new engine is the one area that petroleum oil is better for than synthetics. You see, petroleum oil has a very low film strength which is ideal for breaking in a new engine. That is it’s recommended you run the factory installed petroleum oil for about the first 500 miles.
Further heat cycling break-in will continue during the multiple heating and cooling cycles from driving your vehicle under varying RPM and engine load conditions and then shutting it down for a long period of time to let it cool completely. The multiple heating and cooling cycles are an extremely important factor in properly breaking in a new engine and are often an overlooked factor in the total break-in process. These heating and cooling cycles achieve what is called stress relieving. Back in the "old days" of engine manufacturing, after casting and before an engine block was machined, it would be set outside for several months to age, during which stress relieving occurred naturally, then the block was machined, which helped to produce a better engine than one that was machined immediately after casting.
By changing the factory installed oil and filter after the first 500 miles you will also be removing the initial wear-in particulates (metal shavings) present in the oil and filter. The reason for this is that during initial wear-in there is very high particulate contamination in the oil. These particulates consist mainly of microscopic particles of aluminum, bronze, copper, lead and iron, plus soot particles and other by-products of combustion in your oil. Your filter cannot filter out all these small particulates as many are sub-micron size and too small for the filter to trap, BUT they are also small enough to fit between your bearing and other internal clearances and cause wear. That is why it is recommend that in order to properly break-in a new engine, regardless of what your new car salesman or dealership personnel tell you, is to perform the first oil and filter change at 500 miles and the second at 1,000 miles just to be safe.
For those who still think that running the engine hard during break-in falls into the category of cruel and unusual punishment, there is one more argument for using high power loading for short periods (to avoid excessive heat) during the break-in. The use of low power settings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates glazing of the cylinder walls. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops, and excessive oil consumption frequently occurs. The bad news is that extensive glazing can only be corrected by removing the cylinders and rehoning the walls. This is expensive, and it is an expense that can be avoided by proper break in procedures.
you must achieve a happy medium where you are pushing on the ring hard enough to wear it in but not hard enough to generate enough heat to cause glazing. Once again, if glazing should occur, the only remedy is to remove the effected cylinder, re-hone it and replace the piston rings and start the whole process over again.
"If the wrong type of oil is used initially, or the break-in is too easy, rings and cylinders could (read will) glaze and never seal properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loading to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but make sure you do not lug or overheat the engine. Use high quality, low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight is good), no synthetics, too slippery. If synthetics are used during initial break-in the rings are sure to glaze over.
Und hier der Link dazu: http://www.stangsunleashed.com/forums/i ... l=break-inIn addition, I always replace the drain plug(s) at the first oil change with magnetic drain plug(s) to catch shavings and particles the filter doesn't. Checking it at each oil change gives you a good and additional engine health assessment input.
Hier auch ein lesenswerter Beitrag: http://www.nmraracing.com/forums/showthread.php?p=21330
Der wichtigste Teil daraus: 1
Dersweiteren sagt er auch wieder, für das Einfahren kein syntethisches Öl verwenden:Now if you happen to have a street/strip motor, the break-in process is a bit different. “For a car that will be driven on the street, what I recommend is letting the car warm up for about 20 minutes, and then shutting it off for a few minutes. Then start it back up and take it out on the highway,” says Eichhorn, “then cruise in fifth gear at 60 mph for a while, then step up to 70, making sure not to get it hotter than 190-200 degrees. Those high gears put good load on the motor and really break-in a motor well. At the end of the night, dump the oil and you’re ready to rock.”
Und ein weiterer Link, betrifft aber soweit ich gesehen habe vor allem Motorräder: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htmWhether you are breaking in a full race motor, or a brand new street car, Eichhorn says to use natural dino-juice to break the motor in. “The synthetic oil is too slippery to break an engine in with. You want a little ring-to-cylinder contact to bed them in there. I’ll usually break in a motor, change the oil, make three passes on the motor, and then make the switch to a synthetic oil,” explains Eichhorn. The process to break-in a motor is pretty simple as long as you know what you are doing, and will lead to greater ring life and more power out of your engine.
Nach einigen Stunden lesen hier was meiner Meinung nach Sinn macht für das Einfahren:
1. Alle Gänge brauchen
2. Unterschiedle Touren fahren (lange auf der Autobahn bei gleicher Geschwindigkeit ganz schlecht)
3. Max. ca. 4000 Umdrehungen für den Anfang (bis zum ersten Ölwechsel)
4. Anfangs den Motor 1 - 2 mal abkühlen lassen nach 20 - 30 Minuten Fahrt
5. Erster Öl- und Filterwechsel zwischen 500 - 1200 Miles (*1.6 für Km)
6. Motortemperatur überwachen, hängt auch mit Punkt 2, 3 und 4 zusammen
7. Originale Schraube durch magnetische Schraube ersetzen beim ersten Ölwechsel
8. kein Kickdown vor dem ersten Ölwechsel auch wenn man bei 4000 Umdrehungen aufhören würde
9. Den ersten Gang nur sorgfältig nutzen bzw. zum "normalen" Anfahren
Hab auch ein paar generelle Dinge drauf genommen, damit die Liste möglichst komplett ist, wie z. B. Punkt 8.
Wo ich noch am Überlegen bin:
10. Sollte ich da jetzt wirklich das synthetishe Öl rausnehmen lassen vom Händler für das Einfahren?
Was meint ihr zu dem Ganzen?
Born about 40 years too late! Ridin' on'n'on! 
und bis nächsten Sommer muss ich das alles auswendig können 